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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 5:35 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2011 5:26 pm
Posts: 138
Location: Melbourne, Australia
I've been playing around a bit (trying to justify :? my expenditure on the 3 Dev Boards I purchased). I have used one to Monitor my Central Heating System, successfully :o so far, it seems.

Its not complete, I've only done Proof of Concept, but its been in my linen closet working stand-alone, for 3-4 days, right through to reporting. It's not doing anything an IAM couldn't do, 'but we can't get IAMs in Oz (yet). CAUTION It won't replace an IAM in anything else an IAM is used for!

If You'd like more detail look at my blog Utilising the Current Cost Dev Board -- Part 2 Central Heating Monitor. I'm happy to receive comment and constructive criticism either on the blogsite or in this thread.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:52 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 11:10 am
Posts: 173
thanks for posting this.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 4:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2011 5:26 pm
Posts: 138
Location: Melbourne, Australia
currentcost wrote:
thanks for posting this.


No problem.
PS you commented that the images were missing. have fixed them now.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2012 7:38 pm
Posts: 1
Hello Seeker,

Accept my greetings for your experiments and the sharing of them with this board.

i 've just received my enviR set of components.

Display
Mini transmitter
Bridge

I want to include to my monitoring system (apart from power and temp) also the
Central Heating system.

The idea has as follow:
i have a thermostat inside my apartment.
I want to monitor the time that the thermostat is open.
The thermostat has a led attached that lights-up when the thermostat is open.


As far as i can imagine, i should take an input from thermostat
that should be passed to the development board pins.

Any help will be appreciated,

ycathome


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 9:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2011 5:26 pm
Posts: 138
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Hi ycathome. I am sorry if I appear to have been rude by not replying. I don't know how I missed it but I have only just seen your post.

I have not done anything further with my heating monitor. It is still running on the breadboard -- not doing anything, as it has been summer and the Central heating unused. It is still transmitting and on the original pair of AA batteries. I better get on with it as I could use my breadboard for other purposes.

There is nothing familiar to me inside your thermostat so I am not going to be able to guide you. Others may be able to help, or you may be able to get more information from the manufacture's website.

On mine there are just 2 wires from the furnace with a 4-20 ma current loop with 27v open circuit. Yours looks like it might be providing voltage. I guess the black slider switch is to turn the CH off? It looks like you have a 100K resistor in series with your LED. At 2ma current draw that implies 240 volts is present.

you will need to understand the function of your wires. The red and blue are probably live and neutral, black is probably the switched output. First put a multimeter across each pair connectors on a 250v ac scale and identify the live wire. Make sure you don't have 240v in the thermostat -- if you do be very careful. Check the voltage between switched and neutral, both when the CH is running and when it is off. If you have voltage when it is off but no voltage when on you have a current loop like mine. If you are switching 240v I'd not proceed further. If you have a safe voltage you could proceed along the lines I did.

Let us know how you get on.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 3:29 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2011 11:12 pm
Posts: 38
Location: UK
I didn't see this either but...

SeekerAfterTruth wrote:
It looks like you have a 100K resistor in series with your LED. At 2ma current draw that implies 240 volts is present.


That's a Mains Neon not an LED. They have a strike voltage usually about 90V and for UK 240 Volt AC Mains it's common to see them with a 220K series resistor, so i'm guessing here that 100K is probably for 110V AC Mains.

As it looks like it's a Mains voltage device one option could be to use an opto-isolator. They are available as AC input versions (back to back led's inside) but because they only have LED's inside they operate at about 2V so you will need a suitable series resistor. 100K will probably do the job BUT the wattage is crucial when dropping Mains down to only a couple of volts to run an LED. For instance 5mA to drive an LED via 100K would in theory need a resistor rated at 2.5 Watts or more and it would increase to 10 watts @ 10mA. They do get very hot when dropping that much voltage even at low currents.

An opto-isolator as it's name implies, would give you isolation from the high voltages but i don't like the idea of all that heat generated in the series resistor.

There are other ways to go about this, it's possible to drop the voltage through an X2 rated capacitor or use a small transformer or back to basics with a good old fashioned Mains AC relay and use the contacts to drive the input of the dev board.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 7:08 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 5:29 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Россия
Hi libelium-dev

Thanks for the reply...
This code used to get Pressure value or what exactly????
there is 1 value ...

At the screen i see this value:
BSmart Cities Sensor Board..
Heating Sensor...
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0193548383
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000
Value :0.0000000000

Regard
pamela


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